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Thursday, September 8th, 2011
abric choices can make a crucial difference to a design,GEARBOX MOTOR
Getting the fit right, however, is a challenge. As bodies get bigger, they have a wider variety of shapes, industry executives say. “The more weight you carry, the more diverse the distribution of your weight,” says Anna Scholz, a London-based plus-size designer who sells high-end clothes.Lane Bryant has been making 3-D scans of its customers’ bodies since 2004—65,000 women in total. It uses the data to come up with new and better fits. The company learned that about 15% of its customers have a greater than 10-inch difference between their waist and hip, 70% had an 8- to 10-inch difference and 15% have a 4- to 6-inch difference, says Richard Zielinski, technical design director for the brand.
As a result, the company introduced color-coded Right Fit jeans that align with the three shape groups the company discovered. It says the jeans don’t gap at the back of the waistband, a common complaint among plus-size shoppers. The company also used the size information to create its T3 Tighter Tummy Technology jeans, which will be rolled out in stores next week. They use internal shapewear technology like tummy panels to smooth the stomach area. Over about six months, the company created 10 prototypes of the jean. These included an internal-girdle concept that was dropped because it seemed gimmicky and made women “look really bad,” creating bulges where the girdle didn’t squeeze,
Fabric choices can make a crucial difference to a design. “Spandex is God’s gift to this industry,” says Laurie Williams-Fleury, vice president of technical design for Charming Shoppes Inc., the company that owns Lane Bryant and other plus-size retailers like Fashion Bug and Catherines.Designers at Torrid consider four typical body types: round, curvy, bottom-heavy and straight. The goal is to make a garment look flattering on all four, says Ms. Mu?oz. The company has learned that customers like clothes that create an hourglass shape and elongate. Details along the base of a dress hem can draw the eyes downward, says Ms. Mu?oz. Embellishments like ruffles or patterns along the shoulder and neckline draw the eye up, she says. Waist lines are generally high, sitting around the smallest part of the body, she says. “Empire waists are a big part of what we do,” she says. Generally, Ms. Muoz notes, dresses are big sellers, because they are an easy way to look “feminine and fashionable without sacrificing comfort.”
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